01 · Detail
When to Rebuild Instead of Repair
If more than 30% of the boards are rotten, the sub-frame is sagging or termite-damaged, or the footings have failed, a rebuild is usually more cost-effective than chasing repairs. We assess on-site and give you honest options.
02 · Checklist
Two Main Rebuild Options
- Re-sheet only — keep sound bearers/joists, replace all decking boards, balustrades & handrails
- Full structural rebuild — new footings, sub-frame, decking, stairs and balustrades
03 · Detail
Code-Compliant Rebuilds
All rebuilds meet current Australian Standards — handrail heights, 125mm balustrade gaps, footings sized for soil and wind. Council approval handled where required for decks over 1m.
04 · Detail
Repair vs Rebuild — Honest Decision Guide
Repair when: less than 30% of boards are rotten, the sub-frame is sound, footings haven't moved, and balustrades meet current code. Rebuild when: posts have rotted at the base, the deck has racked or sagged, termites have hit the joists, or you want a different size, height or layout. We give you both options costed.
05 · Detail
Structural Upgrades During Rebuild
A rebuild is the perfect time to upgrade — larger footings for stability, joists at closer spacings for less bounce, stainless fixings instead of galvanised, hardwood instead of treated pine, and code-compliant balustrades and stairs. The new deck will outlast the original by decades.
06 · Detail
Modernising Old Decks
Tired 1990s decks can be transformed during rebuild — wider boards for a contemporary feel, dark stains for a moody look, frameless glass balustrades for unobstructed views, integrated lighting for night entertaining, and built-in seating or planters for outdoor-room appeal.